Approaching Proceno, modern day pilgrim hikers leave Tuscany, cross into Lazio, and enter a region sometimes known as Tuscia. Some consider this the heart of Etruscan empire, home of the original Italians, a prehistoric, volcanic hotbed.
Etruscans were fun-loving folks, who had a passion for life that included elaborate banquets—even at funerals—featuring copious wine consumption and sensuous music and entertainment. They enjoyed a hedonistic, uninhibited sexual lifestyle that some describe as scandalous and amoral.
Theopompus of Chios, a Greek historian from the 4th century BC, stated that:
“…it was commonplace for Etruscans to engage in sexual activities with numerous partners; the sharing of wives was an established custom. Women took particular care of their bodies and exercised often, sometimes along with the men. They did not only share their couches with their husbands but with the other men who happened to be present. There was no embarrassment in being naked, and sexual acts frequently occurred in public for all to see. It was common to partner swap and for women to engage in gymnastic sexual positions.”
Following the official route, the distance is approximately 65 km from Proceno to Viterbo and another 107 km from Viterbo to Rome. It takes 8 days to complete this final stage. The route passes by Acquapendente formerly known as Acquapendentem, meaning, “pending water.” to arrive at Bolsena. It circles around the east side of Lake Bolsena once known as Lacus Volsiniensis, the remains of a large volcanic crater formed almost 400,000 years ago. Up ahead is Montefiascone, once believed to be the Etruscan Temple of Fanum Voltumnae, the chief sanctuary and geographical and spiritual center of the Etruscan universe. The route continues south to bypassing the famous Roman baths of Bacucco, before arriving in Viterbo.
From Viterbo travelers would head south to Vetralla and Capranica to arrive in Sutri, south of Lake Vico and home of more Etruscan ruins. Further on is Campagnano di Roma, gateway to Parco di Veio, 15,000 hectares of deep, lush forests wedged between the Via Cassia to the west and Via Flaminia to the east, with Campagnano di Roma to the north and Roma to the south. The territory covers the so-called Agro Veientano, a region of land that surrounds the Etruscan city of Veio, named after the Etruscan goddess Vei, patron of agriculture and vegetation.
Rome is just a couple of days away.
It is possible to the entire section in little as 6 days by either combining two of the shorter stages before Viterbo and then taking a slightly shorter alternate route around Lake Vico via Ronciglione to arrive in Sutri. And to make things more interesting, there are two other alternate routes one can chose; one that goes further east via Fabrica di Roma and Nepi and another that goes further south via Brancciano along the ancient Via Clodia.
It is a region rich with a varied and scenic landscape, ancient Etruscan ruins and history, fine food from the nearby fresh water Lake Bolsena and interesting wines you might not taste anywhere in Italy.
Moreover, like the Camino de Santiago in Spain leaving from either Proceno or Acquapendente was the minimal required distance to walk to Rome, in order to receive a Testimonium, a document similar to Compostela that pilgrims in Spain would get.
While official statistics for the Via Francigena are always hard to locate, data from a few years ago, suggested this was the most popular section of the entire Via Francigena. When we walked the Via Francigena from Switzerland to Rome, records suggested that only 1,000 people during the prior 10 years had received their Testimonium. The numbers have jumped significantly, as the Via Francigena has become more popular and the route, signage and accommodation have improved.
Nevertheless, even today, probably two thirds of the people that walk or cycle the Via Francigena, still only travel this section. Most today are Italian. The remaining pilgrim hikers that start usually further north are Germans, French, Swiss or English and more recently, Americans and Canadians and the occasional Australian.
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